
Most dents arrive without a collision. A door swung open beside you in a parking lot, a shopping cart got away from someone, a branch came down. The vehicle drives perfectly and there is a dent in the side of it. What happens next depends almost entirely on one thing: whether the paint survived.
If the finish is intact and the metal has not been stretched or sharply creased, the dent can often be worked out from behind and the factory paint left completely untouched — that is paintless dent removal, and it is the better outcome whenever it is possible. When the paint is cracked, the metal is creased, or the damage runs through a body line, the panel needs conventional repair: reshaping, filling, priming and refinishing. This page is about that second case.
A dent like this one — broad, shallow, paint unbroken — is often a candidate for paintless removal. A sharp crease through the same panel would not be.
Either way, the assessment comes first and it is free. We look at the paint, the shape of the damage, what the panel is made of and what sits behind it, then tell you which repair your vehicle actually needs and what it will cost — before anything starts. That is part of how we follow OEM repair standards.
Not Drivable? We’ll Come and Get It.
Free local towing is available to qualified customers based on location — just ask when you open your case. Rental vehicles are available as well, so you are not left arranging one on your own while we handle the repair.
Start Your RepairA finished dent repair is a smooth, correctly coloured panel. Whether it stays that way for years or starts telling on itself after one winter comes down to things that are buried by the time you see it:
The questions we hear most about dents, dings and creases. If yours isn’t here, call the shop at (614) 930-6103 — we’re glad to walk you through it.
Paintless dent removal works the metal back into shape from behind the panel, leaving the factory finish completely untouched. Conventional dent repair is used when that is not possible — the paint is cracked, the metal is creased or stretched, or there is no access behind the panel. It involves reshaping, a thin skim of filler, primer and refinishing. PDR is faster, cheaper and preserves original paint, so it is the first thing we check for.
No. Four things usually rule it out: cracked or chipped paint, a sharp crease rather than a smooth depression, metal that has been stretched thin, and damage sitting on a body line or somewhere with no access from behind. Panel material matters too — aluminium holds its shape differently than steel and does not always come back. We check all of that during the assessment rather than promising an outcome first.
On a conventional dent repair, almost certainly — and that is normal, correct practice, not a shortcut. Filler exists to level the last fraction of a millimetre after the metal has been worked back into shape. What is not acceptable is using it instead of reshaping the panel, or building it up thick to bridge damage. Applied thinly over properly prepared and primed metal, it lasts as long as the panel does.
Not if the corrosion protection is restored. Any repair that reaches bare metal removes the factory coating that was protecting it, so that protection has to be replaced before primer and paint go on. Rust appearing at a repair a couple of years later almost always traces back to that step being skipped — and by then it is under the paint and spreading.
Not from the paint code alone. A code tells us what the colour was when the vehicle was built; sun, weather and time have moved it since. We match to the actual panel, spray out test cards to confirm, and blend into the neighbouring panels so the eye never finds an edge. Metallics and pearls need the most care because they change with viewing angle. More on that on our paint repair page.
Yes. A crease means the metal has been stretched and its shape reset along that line, which is very different from a smooth depression where the panel is simply pushed in. Creases usually rule out paintless removal and take longer to repair conventionally, because the metal has to be brought back gradually rather than pushed out in one motion. A crease across a body line is the hardest version of all.
Usually repair, but not always. Very large damage, badly stretched metal, damage across multiple body lines, or a panel the manufacturer says cannot be reshaped can all make replacement the correct answer — sometimes the cheaper one too, once labour is counted. We will show you the comparison rather than defaulting to whichever is easier for us.
It depends on whether a claim is filed. Cosmetic work paid out of pocket generally does not appear; an insurance claim usually does. Either way, a documented repair reads far better to a future buyer than an undocumented one, and cosmetic damage left alone also affects value. If you are weighing whether to file, we can walk you through the trade-off without pushing you either way.
An appointment gets you seen faster, and you can request one online or send a photo of the dent from your phone — often that is enough for us to tell you whether it is a paintless candidate before you drive over. If you have hail damage across several panels, start with our hail damage page instead.
Copyright © 2026 Alpha Automotive, LLC